Monday, August 10, 2020

8/6 - 8/8/2020: Loowit Circumambulation

Background

I have this lofty goal to walk around (circumambulate) all of the major volcanoes in the Cascade range. By my count, there are 11 that have potential wilderness hiking routes around them. From north to south: Takobia (Glacier Peak), Tacoma (Rainier), Klickitat (Adams), Loowit (St Helens), Wy'east (Hood), Three Fingered Jack, Washington, Three Sisters, Broken Top, Mt Bachelor, and Diamond Peak. The peaks missing from this list either require extensive road walking, have restricted public access, or are simply beyond my hiking skill set.

Where I've been able to educate myself, I choose to use of the names given to these mountains by the peoples who are native to this area. This is not meant to be some elitist flex, but rather a show of respect to the civilizations who have lived on this continent for the thousands of years before us. Before our colonizing ancestors arrived, the nations native to this area lived among and often worshiped these mountains.

These colonizing troops then proceeded to commandeer every part of this country we now call US. Their livelihoods, sovereignty, land, agriculture, and yes, even mountain peaks were unfairly taken. 

The breach.

Day 1 of 3

Stats

2.9 miles
1,280' elevation gain
2.0 hours hiking

Photos

Link to all photos and videos from day 1. The videos are unedited and are mostly rambling, but they also contain more info about the progress of my hike and some things I find interesting about the mountain called Loowit. 

On Thursday evening, I made it to the trailhead by 5:00pm and was walking shortly thereafter. The trail quickly became exposed to the elements, traversing the first lava rock field. Rain and wind picked up, chilling me quickly as my rain shell began to soak thru from the windy drizzle outside and my sweat inside. I only had 8 miles planned for this day.

But after only 3, I decided it would be best to call it a night in an effort to remain dry that night. I recalled that the forecast was favorable for days 2 and 3, and starting out my long day 2 with wet clothes did not sound appealing.

By 7:30pm I was set up in a well-sheltered but tiny grove of trees, freed from the increasing rain. By 8:00 it seemed to stop and I contemplated packing up to make it the remaining 5 miles, anxious to "stay on schedule." But instead I ate my burrito dinner (leftovers from the night before) and slept warm and dry.


First of many exposed lava rock fields.

Day 2 of 3

Stats

23.5 miles
5,205' elevation gain
13.0 hours hiking

Photos

Link to all photos and videos from day 2. The videos are unedited and are mostly rambling, but they also contain more info about the progress of my hike and some things I find interesting about the mountain called Loowit. 

By 5:00am, I was tossing and turning trying to stay comfortable on my 3/4 length thin foam pad. At least for the first half of the night I seemed to sleep well, so I decided I'd had enough and, knowing I had a long day ahead, got an early start. Breaking camp is a much easier task when there are no extraneous/luxury items: I was walking by 5:30am with my cold breakfast beverage (powdered coffee, milk, and cocoa) in-hand.

The morning walking was beautiful. Finally getting out of bed and dressed is the coldest time of the day, but as soon as I'm walking, my body warms up. Shortly, I was passed by a couple of day-hikers with the goal of completing my entire loop in a day - I ended up leapfrogging with them for 20+ miles until I pulled off for camp 13 hours later.

While I was present in my enjoyment of the hiking throughout, this particular morning spent walking alone was one of the two more poignantly perfect moments. My inner monologue consisted mainly of:

  • I'm up early with plenty of time to hike the required 20+ miles at an enjoyable pace.
  • I am walking around a mountain that rained ashes over my family (living in WA at the time) when it explosively erupted 40 years ago.
  • I am so glad I stopped hiking early last night.
  • This lighting is am-aah-zing.
The hiking for this long day of hiking consisted of many trademark volcanic features. Because the flanks of our volcanoes were (and still are to a lesser extent) covered in enormous glaciers which grow and recede with time, their final recession up the slopes has left trademark gullies around their entire circumference. The depth of these valleys (up to 600 feet by my topographic measurements) represent the former size of the giant glaciers.

For the hiker, of course, these geological marvels mean a lot of extra miles, elevation gain/decent, and added risk. Their steep slopes are made up of loose sand and rocks precariously resting in their current, temporary shape. Each step moves them into a new form, forever changing the mountain. And every few decades, large portions of these slopes give way, rendered unsafe enough for the trail to be re-routed (sometimes a mile or more up- or down-slope to allow a more suitable crossing). 

The going was challenging but steady, and the ability to take breaks at water sources every 2-3 hours helped immensely. These 30 minutes with my feet elevated, shoes off, stuffing my face with snacks are some of my favorite. If I can, I'll soak my feet in the cold, rushing creeks, coaxing the pooled blood out my feet -- I always feel energized after this.

Traversing the blast zone was indescribable and only partly portrayed in the many photos I took. The absolute power becomes obvious, but also there are countless young trees and wildflowers. The terrain is rocky and unforgiving, but also there are large streams and springs cascading down.

A final climb up to aptly named Windy Pass marked the start of the end of day 2 and, indeed, the entire loop itself. For ahead of me lie some sketchy trail, but nothing more difficult than this day. 

Sunrise hiking.

Morning mug, day 2.

Short sections of great trail tread!

This was the more common trail - vague rocky sections marked by wooden poles.

The first major gully crossing (completed).

Toutle Canyon is huuuuge. The trail is visible in the foreground, on the left, switching back above the grove of trees.

Lovely wildflowers throughout.

Water was surprisingly present on the north side. Looking up into the breach.

A gorgeous and unexpected spring!

Not the least scary section of trail I've ever hiked.

Camp, night 2: In the shadow of the mountain on the east side (Plains of Abraham).

Day 3 of 3

Stats

7.6 miles
1,125' elevation gain
4.0 hours hiking

Photos

Link to all photos and videos from day 3. The videos are unedited and are mostly rambling, but they also contain more info about the progress of my hike and some things I find interesting about the mountain called Loowit. 

The night before, I struggled for an hour to find a suitable place to camp. The Plains of Abraham provided little respite from the wind and, coupled with a soft, gravelly ground, made setting up my tarp a proper challenge. I did prevail and even ended up adding a small windbreak.

I slept in later than expected, thinking my uncomfortable pad would prevent me sleeping past 4:00am again. But at 6:00 I awoke and was walking by 6:30, once again enjoying the quiet and brisk solitude.

The hiking was easy and flat for the majority, and my legs felt strong and fresh despite the long day prior. The trail felt familiar now; though its loose sand and rocks are unforgiving and require careful focus during exposed sections. But only a few smaller gullies and 30+ departing hikers stood between me and my completed loop.


View from the tent.


Morning mug, day 3.


On the Plains of Abraham.


One of the sketchy gullies.


Taking the high road over this gully thankfully.


Also not the least scary section of trail I've ever hiked.


God Works in Mysterious Haze (homebrewed at Slanty Shanty Brewing).
 

Friday, July 19, 2019

Journal Entry: Thursday, 7/4/2019

Day 7 of 10

Stats

14.8 miles
3,696' elevation gain
7.0 hours hiking

Photos

Link to all photos and videos from day 7.

Journal Entry

italics = original journal text
regular = added during transcription

I made it to Timberline Lodge! It's a long and sandy slog made 100% worth it by seeing Kylie and then starting back off with Geoff and Ivan. I gorged myself at the lunch buffet, reloaded my pack with fresh food, fuel, and water and then the three of us set off. 

There are a lot of people out and about, a sure symptom of the July 4th holiday.

After our luncheon rendezvous, Ivan, Geoff, and I set off fom the ski slopes of Timberline Lodge around 2:00pm. During my 3 miles in and 3 miles out of here, I saw as many hikers as I did in the past 6 days/125 miles. A fun(ny) mix of long-distance hikers, backpackers, day hikers, and strollers (not the baby stroller kind; like one who is out for a short stroll from the car).

Our goal for the evening was Paradise Park, a grassy alpine meadow high on a more accessible slope of Wy'east. Because of its idyllic locale and open view toward the Willamette Valley, I knew the fireworks views of July 4th would make it a popular destination for others. Among the 5 or 6 other groups, we found a spot near the trail with room for 2 flat-ish-ish pitches.

Ivan made his first of 3 home run hiking dinners: Frito Pie (dehydrated beans, rice, taco seasoning, Fritos). My hiker hunger was increasing, so even after the heavy dose of lunch buffet I was ecstatic for a new dinner. Once the sun finally went down we saw 30+ tiny fireworks shows from the valley below.


An awesome 3D carved topographic sign.

Enjoying the weather and excited for company.

Hello, Wy'east :) Waiting for my lunch crew to arrive.

Last 50 miles, here we go! ZigZag Canyon in the background.

Paradise approaching.

Camp, night 7.

Oh yumm.

Wow.

Journal Entry: Wednesday, 7/3/2019

Day 6 of 10

Stats

23.3 miles
3,069' elevation gain
10.0 hours hiking

Photos

Link to all photos and videos from day 6.

Journal Entry

italics = original journal text
regular = added during transcription

A long day in the green tunnel.

Today was all about timing for tomorrow. Tomorrow was when Kylie was meeting me at Timberline Lodge with Geoffrey and Ivan and Timberline Lodge was where a lunch buffet was. They were scheduled to arrive around noon while the buffet opened at 11:00. After 110 miles over 6 full days of hiking, my appetite was healthy.

Needless to say, I wanted to plan for an 11:00 buffet arrival, meaning I would try and hike enough today to leave no more than 10 miles tomorrow morning. 

Again, the weather was great for hiking: overcast and 55°F. My rain jacket was enough to break the nip without causing me to sweat until hiking uphill, of which there were a few today. And now I'm officially on the slopes of Wy'east. 

I got an early start this morning, around 6:45 and after only one other hiker. Within the first 3 hours I saw 5 new southbound PCT hikers. Then I got to the popular weekend destination of Timothy Lake. 

It actually wasn't crowded, even for being the day before a long weekend. I passed a few occupied camps including one boat-up site which looked like fun. I was also startled by a "hello" which came from none less than a mountain biker. It was then that I realized how much our mind relies on hunches to construct a general idea of our surroundings. Over the past 6 days of hiking, my mind had become dependent on trusting that if I look back (which I often do when hiking alone) and see no one for 100 yards, there will be no one behind me for the near future - it takes a long time to make up 100+ yards at a hiking pace.

I was hit with this realization like, immediately, because there was a fucking cyclist on the PCT! I stopped hiking, faced him, and stood in the middle of the trail until he was just a few feet from me and had to unclip his pedals and stop. "Bikes aren't allowed on the PCT ya know," I said.

"Yeah sorry, I'm just visiting from Phoenix and I got a little lost," was his excuse.

"Well what trail did you turn onto this one from? I can help you find it on my app."

"I'm not sure, I was just riding around the lake," he states and then walks his bike off the trail and around me, realizing that I'm not moving for him. 

"Bikes aren't allowed on this trail so if you're not going to find the right one then you should probably walk your bike."  (this is actually the official, signed rule for the 600' section of bike trail that overlaps with the PCT just 2 miles north of where we met)

"I've already been riding it this far…" and then his annoyed voice trailed off as he rode away.

Whatever. I made it 23 miles today so now I'm within 10 of Timberline Lodge. Meeting up with Kylie, Geoffrey, and Ivan to eat at the lunch buffet and then hike to Cascade locks with the latter two. 



Leaving the Warm Springs Reservation and entering Wy'east National Forest.

 Little Crater Lake - much smaller but such wow.

 We must be in the PNW.

After a day of hiking in forests and fog, this was an amazing view.

Camp, night 6.

Journal Entry: Tuesday, 7/2/2019

Day 5 of 10

Stats

16.0 miles
1,670' elevation gain
6.0 hours hiking

Photos

Link to all photos and videos from day 5.

Journal Entry

italics = original journal text
regular = added during transcription

Maroon Bells leap of faith (reminder to watch this YouTube video). [insane climbing footage]

Back on trail after a wonderful zero day. After getting into camp around 9:15[pm on Sunday], Kylie and I caught up as I wound down from the high of my day. We spent the next day mostly in our tent taking refuge from the constant mosquitoes and sporadic rain - a surprisingly enjoyable time. 

This morning, we set out for Ollalie Meadow Trailhead, the start of my next segment. Another goodbye and I was off. The trail is definitely more populated now that we are north of the last snow-affected section in Oregon (Mt. Jefferson) - I saw a total of 11 hikers, all of which are either thru hiking (via jumping around to snow free areas) or doing sections of Oregon like me. Eight of us are camped in the vicinity of Warm Springs River.


Trying my best to organize my resupply, unpack, swap packs, and re-pack all in the back of Kylie's Crosstrek. The mosquitoes were too bad to be outside.


Hiking with Baba (Czech for Grandma) and Payday, thru hikers I leapfrogged with for the next 6 days to Cascade Locks.


Debuting my DIY pack! Spoiler alert: It lasted the remaining 100 miles just fine :)


More trees please.

Sunday, July 14, 2019

Journal Entry: Sunday, 6/30/2019

Day 4 of 11

Stats

26.2 miles
3,112' elevation gain
11.5 hours hiking

Photos

Link to all photos and videos from day 4.

Journal Entry

italics = original journal text
regular = added during transcription

What an exciting and event-filled day yet again! Once again, Lauren, Jerry, and I departed for another segment of snow travel - 10 miles today. Having traversed 8 miles thru unknown territory yesterday, I felt confident we would succeed.

We learned that snow is much better to walk on in the morning (less slushy, more solid). We learned that Obsidian Spring has the most amazing rocks and, more importantly, the most amazing water. We learned that politics in Australia is not that different than it is here. And we learned that we were all grateful for having each others’ company the previous 24 hours.

After 22 miles together, I felt (somewhat) embarrassingly bonded to them. But having completed their loop around Three Sisters (an impressive feat considering the conditions), they parted way and I decided I would try to push all the way to Big Lake and arrive at camp tonight instead of tomorrow morning. Borrowing half a liter of water before they left, I made and scarfed 2 packs of ramen for dinner and set off.

Doing the math: I had only done 12.5 miles yet it was already 4:00pm - being on the west side of the Cascade Crest, I figured I had until 9:00pm until sundown - that left 14.5 miles in 5 hours. It was faster than I normally hike but I knew it was feasible if I took very (very) few breaks - just keep moving. If I wasn't going to make it, there were two potential places to camp - one 4.0 miles and the other 2.0 miles from Big Lake.

What I hadn't planned on: 4 miles of lava fields and two 800' climbs. I took them in stride, letting my excitement at having surpassed the crux of the hike (Three Sisters snow adventure) take over. I danced (aka fist pumps on repeat) and sang my way down the trail to Boston (thanks for the recent reminder, Dad). Aside from 5 day-hikers in the few miles near Highway 242, I saw no one for 3 hours and 9 miles - I felt as if I had Mt. Washington Wilderness all to myself! 

To see if I could keep pace thru the lava fields and climbs, I checked my watch hourly. I allowed myself a smidge of leeway for being slow on the first half - the second was all downhill and all on dirt trail. As expected, I was a little behind the 3.0 MPH goal after the first 2 hours. Feeling beat down from the lava trail and first climb, I set my timer for 5 minutes and stopped to stretch. My ankles were quite unhappy with the marble-to-softball-sized rocks of which the trail tread was composed but otherwise I felt fine. My ramen bomb was wearing off already, so as I continued walking I refueled with a Milky Way and Clif Block gummies (the ones with caffeine!). 

The following 10 miles were delightfully uneventful - that is to say expectedly moderately challenging with some nice views of Mt. Washington. Indeed, I successfully made it to camp at 9:15pm right as the sun finished its beautiful set, surprising Kylie and Sheriff both.

Snow for 1/2 mile sections at a time.


OMG snuh.

A steep traverse where I was happy to have micro-spikes and an ice axe.

Resting in the sun. Photo credit: Lauren.

R to L: Seekseekqua (10,497'), Three Fingered Jack (7,844'), Mt. Washington (7,677', my destination for the night).

Mt. Washington getting closer.

Beargrass!

I made it! One day early makes 92 miles in 4 days.

Journal Entry: Saturday, 6/29/2019

Day 3 of 11

Stats

22.8 miles
3,447' elevation gain
9.00 hours hiking

Photos

Link to all photos and videos from day 3.

Journal Entry

italics = original journal text
regular = added during transcription

What a day! After an uneventful first 10 miles, lots of events happened.


  1. I got service at my second break and called Kylie. 
  2. I got caught in a thunderstorm. Luckily it only lasted an hour or so  I took refuge under a small grove of trees. I hadn't seen any lightning to accompany the loud thunderclaps overhead, but didn't want the first strike to be on my umbrella. So I donned my rainjacket and made some ramen while waiting it out. 
  3. I hiked across Wickiup Plain - such a weird and amazing place. Having just hiked out of the previously mentioned thunderstorm, it felt otherworldly to be hiking across a barren, sunny tundra at the foot of South Sister and siblings. 
  4. I met and hiked with Lauren and Jerry who are finishing their Three Sisters circumambulation tomorrow. We linked up right before the snow began in earnest and it was just the mental safety net I needed to push into the evening. The weather and snow conditions were an unknown, while usually-reliable campsites may be under snow. Regardless, the three of us set off at 2:30 with the goal of pushing halfway thru the 18-mile affected area.
  5. We hiked over 8 miles of snow! And we have 10 more miles tomorrow. Luckily, Geoff and I hiked the latter 8 of them last weekend, giving me valuable insight into the conditions.





Camp, morning 3.

Early morning meadow.

Approaching South Sister (left). Broken Top and Mt. Bachelor (right) also passing by.


Waiting out an afternoon thunderstorm. Listen for the thunderclap at the end!

Wickiup Plain - what a cool place to see.


We met a 4-dog sled team out for a Summer trip!


A few miles into the snow.

Camp, night 3.

Wednesday, July 10, 2019

Journal Entry: Friday, 6/28/2019

Day 2 of 11

Stats

22.0 miles
2,013' elevation gain
8.50 hours hiking

Photos

Link to all photos and videos from day 2.

Journal Entry

italics = original journal text
regular = added during transcription

Lots of mosquitos today! Not as bad as 2016 yet though. Backpacker Radio had a listener question about pooping before vs. after digging the cat hole which I was just thinking about this morning while digging mine! (before pooping, FYI).

Also listened to a This American Life episode about a wimp in a football player body. Reminded me of Daro. "Gary Gullman is getting huge!"

Jeff and I leapfrogged with a couple doing the OR section today. They walked quite fast but took long breaks, so we saw them 4 or 5 times. After hiking together off and on for about 20 miles since yesterday afternoon, Jeff and I split up at one of our breaks today. Here, the mosquitoes were swarming him while leaving me in relative peace so he hiked on without me. He and the couple stayed ahead of me for the rest of the day until this evening when I came upon the 3 of them camped at Mac Lake. It was only 4:00 so I filled a bottle and then ate dinner in my tarp. (yes, I set it up just for dinner - the bugs!!!) I continued on for 5 miles until 6:30 so unless I get a late start and Jeff an early one, we likely won't cross paths again.

In addition to the OR section couple, I met Crash and Princess Polly who are thru hiking this summer. 



Camp, morning 2.

A sample of the trash picked up at camp.

Hiking with Jeff.


Update from the afternoon of day 1.