Monday, August 10, 2020

8/6 - 8/8/2020: Loowit Circumambulation

Background

I have this lofty goal to walk around (circumambulate) all of the major volcanoes in the Cascade range. By my count, there are 11 that have potential wilderness hiking routes around them. From north to south: Takobia (Glacier Peak), Tacoma (Rainier), Klickitat (Adams), Loowit (St Helens), Wy'east (Hood), Three Fingered Jack, Washington, Three Sisters, Broken Top, Mt Bachelor, and Diamond Peak. The peaks missing from this list either require extensive road walking, have restricted public access, or are simply beyond my hiking skill set.

Where I've been able to educate myself, I choose to use of the names given to these mountains by the peoples who are native to this area. This is not meant to be some elitist flex, but rather a show of respect to the civilizations who have lived on this continent for the thousands of years before us. Before our colonizing ancestors arrived, the nations native to this area lived among and often worshiped these mountains.

These colonizing troops then proceeded to commandeer every part of this country we now call US. Their livelihoods, sovereignty, land, agriculture, and yes, even mountain peaks were unfairly taken. 

The breach.

Day 1 of 3

Stats

2.9 miles
1,280' elevation gain
2.0 hours hiking

Photos

Link to all photos and videos from day 1. The videos are unedited and are mostly rambling, but they also contain more info about the progress of my hike and some things I find interesting about the mountain called Loowit. 

On Thursday evening, I made it to the trailhead by 5:00pm and was walking shortly thereafter. The trail quickly became exposed to the elements, traversing the first lava rock field. Rain and wind picked up, chilling me quickly as my rain shell began to soak thru from the windy drizzle outside and my sweat inside. I only had 8 miles planned for this day.

But after only 3, I decided it would be best to call it a night in an effort to remain dry that night. I recalled that the forecast was favorable for days 2 and 3, and starting out my long day 2 with wet clothes did not sound appealing.

By 7:30pm I was set up in a well-sheltered but tiny grove of trees, freed from the increasing rain. By 8:00 it seemed to stop and I contemplated packing up to make it the remaining 5 miles, anxious to "stay on schedule." But instead I ate my burrito dinner (leftovers from the night before) and slept warm and dry.


First of many exposed lava rock fields.

Day 2 of 3

Stats

23.5 miles
5,205' elevation gain
13.0 hours hiking

Photos

Link to all photos and videos from day 2. The videos are unedited and are mostly rambling, but they also contain more info about the progress of my hike and some things I find interesting about the mountain called Loowit. 

By 5:00am, I was tossing and turning trying to stay comfortable on my 3/4 length thin foam pad. At least for the first half of the night I seemed to sleep well, so I decided I'd had enough and, knowing I had a long day ahead, got an early start. Breaking camp is a much easier task when there are no extraneous/luxury items: I was walking by 5:30am with my cold breakfast beverage (powdered coffee, milk, and cocoa) in-hand.

The morning walking was beautiful. Finally getting out of bed and dressed is the coldest time of the day, but as soon as I'm walking, my body warms up. Shortly, I was passed by a couple of day-hikers with the goal of completing my entire loop in a day - I ended up leapfrogging with them for 20+ miles until I pulled off for camp 13 hours later.

While I was present in my enjoyment of the hiking throughout, this particular morning spent walking alone was one of the two more poignantly perfect moments. My inner monologue consisted mainly of:

  • I'm up early with plenty of time to hike the required 20+ miles at an enjoyable pace.
  • I am walking around a mountain that rained ashes over my family (living in WA at the time) when it explosively erupted 40 years ago.
  • I am so glad I stopped hiking early last night.
  • This lighting is am-aah-zing.
The hiking for this long day of hiking consisted of many trademark volcanic features. Because the flanks of our volcanoes were (and still are to a lesser extent) covered in enormous glaciers which grow and recede with time, their final recession up the slopes has left trademark gullies around their entire circumference. The depth of these valleys (up to 600 feet by my topographic measurements) represent the former size of the giant glaciers.

For the hiker, of course, these geological marvels mean a lot of extra miles, elevation gain/decent, and added risk. Their steep slopes are made up of loose sand and rocks precariously resting in their current, temporary shape. Each step moves them into a new form, forever changing the mountain. And every few decades, large portions of these slopes give way, rendered unsafe enough for the trail to be re-routed (sometimes a mile or more up- or down-slope to allow a more suitable crossing). 

The going was challenging but steady, and the ability to take breaks at water sources every 2-3 hours helped immensely. These 30 minutes with my feet elevated, shoes off, stuffing my face with snacks are some of my favorite. If I can, I'll soak my feet in the cold, rushing creeks, coaxing the pooled blood out my feet -- I always feel energized after this.

Traversing the blast zone was indescribable and only partly portrayed in the many photos I took. The absolute power becomes obvious, but also there are countless young trees and wildflowers. The terrain is rocky and unforgiving, but also there are large streams and springs cascading down.

A final climb up to aptly named Windy Pass marked the start of the end of day 2 and, indeed, the entire loop itself. For ahead of me lie some sketchy trail, but nothing more difficult than this day. 

Sunrise hiking.

Morning mug, day 2.

Short sections of great trail tread!

This was the more common trail - vague rocky sections marked by wooden poles.

The first major gully crossing (completed).

Toutle Canyon is huuuuge. The trail is visible in the foreground, on the left, switching back above the grove of trees.

Lovely wildflowers throughout.

Water was surprisingly present on the north side. Looking up into the breach.

A gorgeous and unexpected spring!

Not the least scary section of trail I've ever hiked.

Camp, night 2: In the shadow of the mountain on the east side (Plains of Abraham).

Day 3 of 3

Stats

7.6 miles
1,125' elevation gain
4.0 hours hiking

Photos

Link to all photos and videos from day 3. The videos are unedited and are mostly rambling, but they also contain more info about the progress of my hike and some things I find interesting about the mountain called Loowit. 

The night before, I struggled for an hour to find a suitable place to camp. The Plains of Abraham provided little respite from the wind and, coupled with a soft, gravelly ground, made setting up my tarp a proper challenge. I did prevail and even ended up adding a small windbreak.

I slept in later than expected, thinking my uncomfortable pad would prevent me sleeping past 4:00am again. But at 6:00 I awoke and was walking by 6:30, once again enjoying the quiet and brisk solitude.

The hiking was easy and flat for the majority, and my legs felt strong and fresh despite the long day prior. The trail felt familiar now; though its loose sand and rocks are unforgiving and require careful focus during exposed sections. But only a few smaller gullies and 30+ departing hikers stood between me and my completed loop.


View from the tent.


Morning mug, day 3.


On the Plains of Abraham.


One of the sketchy gullies.


Taking the high road over this gully thankfully.


Also not the least scary section of trail I've ever hiked.


God Works in Mysterious Haze (homebrewed at Slanty Shanty Brewing).