5/10/2016: Route

Proposed PCT route from California to Washington border.

After many revisions, my route thru Oregon is now finalized (I hope). Leaving the California border on July 17, I plan to arrive at the Washington border 26 days later. The hike will be 434 miles and divided into 6 stints. Between each of these stints, I will pick up a resupply box (to be shipped in early July) from a local business, repack my food bag, and continue on my way.

Stint 1: CA/OR Border to Fish Lake Resort (60 miles, 4 days)
It all starts on Sunday morning with a short drive down Interstate 5 from Callahan's Lodge in Ashland to the California border. Here, Kylie drops me off and continues on to spend some of their hard-earned summer with family. I begin walking north on a frontage road, taking the first of some million footsteps that will take me to Washington. 7 miles later the PCT intersects my road and I turn right to join it.

Aside: The official PCT crosses from California into Oregon about 15 miles west of this spot. However, from Ashland it's a bumpy 1.5 hour drive and adds 27 trail miles to the hike. In the interest of squeezing my timeline and simplifying things for Kylie, I chose to simply start where I-5 crosses the border.

At 16 miles per day, this first stint is comprised of the shortest daily mileages, allowing me to "ease" into the daily grind of hiking of 8 hours day after day. Taking 4 days, these first 60 miles guide me through the Siskiyou Mountains, Rogue River National Forest, and the lava fields of Brown Mountain. I arrive at a small resort named for the small lake on which it sits. Fish Lake holds my first first resupply box.

Stint 2: Fish Lake Resort to Crater Lake (48 miles, 3 days)
With California's Mt. Shasta still looming to south I pass Mt. McLoughlin on Wednesday morning, the first of Oregon's 10 major Cascade Range volcanoes. Sky Lakes Wilderness continues 40 miles north, butting up against the south end of Crater Lake National Park.

Once in the Park on Saturday, it's only 10 short miles to the entrance booth, which PCT hikers skirt around to avoid the $20 entry fee (hikers are charged the same fee that cars pay). Here, still 5 miles below the rim of the crater, I pick up my 2nd resupply box. Since back-country camping is prohibited for the next 15 miles while near Crater Lake's rim, this night will likely be spent in Mazama Campground, just across the parking lot.

Stint 3: Crater Lake to Odell Lake (86 miles, 5 days)
Sunday morning starts with brief hike up to the rim of Crater Lake, providing a stunning view and a magnificent start to this stint.

Mt. Scott, the second Cascade volcano, is visible across the lake to the east. At 8,900 ft, it is the pinnacle of what remains after its predecessor's destruction. However, Mt. Scott was previously just a minor spur on the estimated 12,000 ft Mt. Mazama (tallest in Oregon), whose eruption 7,000 years ago cleaved nearly a mile off its top. Thus, the bowl that is the picturesque Crater Lake was formed.

Ironically, the country's deepest lake filled some of the world's purest water provides the PCT hiker no sustenance, but instead marks the beginning of the longest water-less stretch of the trail.

26 miles and 5 liters (11 lbs!) of water later, I reach Thielsen Creek. During these miles, my pack will be at its heaviest. 12 lbs base pack weight, 11 lbs of food and fuel (5 days), and 11 lbs of water combine forces to become a 34-pound burden. For comparison, my total pack weight will be under 20 lbs for 18 of the 25 hiking days, so this section will be both mentally and physically challenging.

At mile 140, I pass Mt. Thielsen and reach the high point of the PCT in Oregon/Washington. It is volcano number 3 of 11. 18 miles per day brings me to Odell Lake by Thursday, where a 2-day layover with Kylie, Sheriff Johnson, and friends will provide a welcome and much needed rejuvenation.

Stint 4: Odell Lake to Big Lake Youth Camp (89 miles, 5 days)
Leaving the comfort of car-camping behind, I start walking north again on Sunday morning. After 60 miles through the countless Cascade Lakes region west of Bend, I reach the Three Sisters Wilderness, home to South, Middle, and North Sisters. Volcanoes number 4, 5, and 6.

I continue towards Mt. Washington and my next resupply at Big Lake Youth Camp, an Adventist summer camp nestled in the forest. A true friend of PCT hikers, the camp offers showers, laundry, and (buffet-style) meals and asks for only a small donation.

Stint 5: Big Lake Youth Camp to Timberline Lodge (102 miles, 5 days)
I arrive at Big Lake Youth Camp on Thursday and am back on trail by Friday morning. In order to keep this stint to 5 days, an average of just over 20 miles per day is required. At this point, I'm expecting my body to be adjusted to thru-hiking and look forward to the challenge.

Out of Mt. Washington Wilderness and into Mt. Jefferson Wilderness, Three-Fingered Jack is the next volcano, followed shortly by Mt. Jefferson. Mt. Hood lies just ahead on the skyline, its northern slopes dropping away towards the Columbia River/Washington Border. Another buffet (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) is waiting at Timberline lodge when I arrive on Tuesday.

Stint 6: Timberline Lodge to OR/WA Border (50 miles, 3 days)
My last push for the border begins on Wednesday morning. The goal of a Friday afternoon arrival requires only 17 miles per day. After 40 miles of up-and-down hiking along ridges, the last 10 miles drop 4,000 vertical feet into Cascade Locks and the lowest point on the PCT. The last miles are an alternate to the official PCT, which misses a gaggle of scenic waterfalls along Eagle Creek. Among the most scenic points along the PCT, Tunnel Falls makes a strong case.

The small town of Cascade Locks on the Columbia serves as the northern terminus of my hike, while PCT thru-hikers will continue on. After hiking 2,145 miles from Mexico, the remaining 500 miles to Canada are a worthy end to their epic adventures.

3/13/2016: Training

Of the many thoughts I encounter in my search of trail wisdom, the ability of the human body to adapt is often recurring. Numerous accounts of out-of-shape, off-the-couch thru hikers confirm that, given about 2 continuous months on the trail, nearly anyone is capable of hiking back-to-back-to-back 20 mile days. Of course, those first 2 months are typically riddled with growing pains  (blisters, muscles, etc) and may not be all that pleasant. But the 3-4 months that remain for these thru hikers tend to be (relatively) comfortable.

In my case, the fact that I'll only be on the trail for 1 month requires that I already be in "thru hiker shape" (or at least close to it) when I begin. According to Ray Jardine's PCT Handbook, training should start 5 months prior to the start date, beginning with 3-5 mile walks and ending with back-to-back days of your target mileage and pack weight (20 miles and 30 lbs).

Starting my hike in July gives me the advantage of getting to train through spring and summer (due to their April-ish start dates, Mexico to Canada thru hikers are required to train mostly in winter). However, I am also afforded the benefit of being at the beginning of my training while the weather is still cold and rainy. At this point, most of my outings are short (5-10 miles) and close to home, meaning they are low-risk opportunities to test my gear and how I use it. 

For example, one clothing item I've been oscillating about is a mid layer fleece-type jacket (similar to this). Mine in particular weighs 7.0 oz (almost half a pound!), adds a fair amount of warmth for the weight, and dries very quickly. My only other torso articles are a rain shell (blue in photo), puffy jacket (gray in photo), and hiking shirt (green in photo), excluding sleepwear.

We like to shop at the Columbia employee store...

Uses for the fleece would include: wearing under my rain jacket during cold rain, cold mornings while hiking, and wearing in camp. Up for debate is whether I can simply use my puffy jacket for these uses instead. Typically, I am finding that once I start hiking (even in cold rain), I am fine with just my hiking shirt and rain shell. I am also finding that my puffy jacket is (so far) a fine alternative to the fleece during cold morning hiking. It can also be worn at night to add some warmth while sleeping.

Since January, I've walked about 30 miles through our neighborhood, often just 3-5 miles at at time. In addition to being convenient, hiking from home is surprisingly scenic! The weather for the majority of these hikes have been 40-50°F and rainy, providing me with a perfect opportunity to test these different clothing layers.

Weekend hikes are gradually getting longer, and will eventually turn into back-to-back 20-mile days. These will either be overnight trips or back-to-back dayhikes and will give me a chance to test and adapt my entire gear set. 

Given the size (5,100 acres), location (20 minutes from home), and trails (70 miles), Forest Park is a tremendous asset for my training. The Wildwood trail, for example, is a 30-mile trail that spans the entire park from north to south. A lofty goal I have in the back of my mind is to do the entire Wildwood trail back-to-back, southbound one day and northbound the next.

Forest Park's 70+ miles of trails

The ZigZag mountains (in the foothills southwest of Mt. Hood) provide a network of 50+ miles of trails with plenty of backcountry camping available. 30-mile shuttles and 40-mile loops are possible in this area.

ZigZag Mountains

Another thought I had was the 70+ mile "40-Mile" Loop, which spans from Forest park to Troutdale and back along the Columbia River. Originally conceived in the early 20-century as way to connect to city's parks, it is now a project of a small few who wish see it completed. Completing this loop section by section might also be a fun training project.

The "40-mile" loop shown in red.

11/5/2015: Priorities

At this point in the planning stage (Christmas approaching...), it is important that I shore up my priorities for new/needed gear. As mentioned before, I am searching for the items which give the greatest weight savings per dollar spent. Below is a link to the list (in spreadsheet form, obvi) showing the finalized new gear list. 

SPREADSHEET LINK

Priority is based on cost per ounce saved, ounces saved, pack volume saved, and necessity. By reducing pack volume, I am able to carry a smaller (and lighter) pack, therefore reducing weight. Items that save significant amounts of both weight and volume (like the shelter and sleeping bag) have been placed higher on the list. Items 1 thru 6 on the list are what I've deemed prerequisites; that is, gear that may or may not not save weight but are still necessary for the trip. These include things like a point-and-shoot camera and a sit pad, which add weight but are still something I want to carry.

Items 7 & 8: Immediately following the prerequisites is a new water filtration system, which consists of the filter itself (Sawyer Mini) and a water storage bag (Evernew 2 liter). Together, these 2 items cost only $36 and save 1 lb 3 oz (1.9 $/oz). They replace a heavier pump-style water filter and 1 liter Nalgene bottle.

Item 9: The next piece of gear is a new shelter; the ProTrail from TarpTent. My current shelter is a two-person REI Camp Dome (5 lb 1 oz, incl. tent body, fly, poles, stakes, and lightweight polycro ground sheet). The ProTrail is a lightweight, tarp-style, single-person shelter that relies on hiking poles to pitch. Consisting of little more than a tarp and shallow bathtub-like bug net/floor, its total weight (incl. tent, stakes, and polycro ground sheet) is only 1 lb 11 oz (3 lb 2 oz saved, 4.2 $/oz).

Item 10: At 6.0 $/oz, an Enlightened Equipment Enigma top quilt in place of my mummy sleeping bag saves almost 5 liters of pack space along with 2 lb 4 oz.

Item 11: A pair of Ultralight Rain Pants from AntiGravity Gear would replace my zipoff style hiking pants and save 10 oz at 5.5 $/oz.

Item 12: Next is a new cookpot. Moving from a nonstick-coated pot to an un-coated titanium one is made possible by the fact that I won't be doing any cooking of food directly in the pot; I'll only be boiling water for dehydrated meals (food tends to stick to titanium pots). In addition, the most water I'll need to boil at a time is 2 cups (16 fl oz, 475 mL). At 1.8 L (61 fl oz), my current pot is oversized. Switching to a SnowPeak Trek 700 will save 5.3 oz for only 7.3 $/oz.

Item 13: While the weights of some categories like toiletries and food can be minimized cheaply by simple research and diligence (and spreadsheets), the insulating clothing layer tends to be one where the only weigh way to save weight is to spend money. Even still, a new (goose) down jacket from MontBell (5.6 oz) would replace my (synthetic) down hooded jacket from Columbia (22.5 oz) at a cost of just 9.6 $/oz. In addition to being more lightweight than synthetic down, goose down is more compressible. This allows me to reduce my pack volume and weight even further.

Item 14: Hanging one's food isn't a legal requirement on the Oregon section of the PCT, but sometimes it will be necessary. For example, mice and ants are fairly common on the trail. The former have been known to chew their way through tents and food bags in search of tasty treats. Because of this, a simple method (meaning not necessarily bear proof like in the Sierra Nevadas) of hanging food is desired. The PCT hang is both simple and quick, requiring minimal gear. ZPacks sells a Bear Bag Kit, which consists of a durable (but lightweight) food bag (1.4 oz), 50' of lightweight cordage (1.4 oz), a rock sack (0.1 oz), and a small carabiner (0.1 oz). These 4 items would save 4.4 oz at 10.3 $/oz.

Item 15: The main way to save weight on my sleeping pad is to switch to a closed cell foam (CCF) pad, as opposed to an inflatable mattress. The downside to CCF pads is that they are (for me) terribly uncomfortable. The other way to save weight is to shrink the size of the pad. By switching to a pad that only extends from my head to upper thighs, I can shed about 1/3 of the weight and still maintain a comfortable sleep system. My empty backpack would typically serve as the remaining terminus of the mattress, resting under my feet and lower legs to provide insulation and comfort. A Thermarest NeoAir XLite (short length, 8.0 oz) would replace my REI Flash (regular length, 16.5 oz) at 15.3 $/oz.

All items listed are also on my PCT Pinterest board.

10/12/2015: Stoves

Now that I've decided on bringing a stove (as opposed to going stoveless), the only decision left is which stove system to use. Only 2 options remain at this point: A denatured alcohol Fancy Feast stove and canister fuel with a screw-on stove.

A Fancy Feast stove is a simple, lightweight, and inexpensive option for lightweight backpacking. It is an empty cat food can with holes punched around the top of the can. One simply fills the stove with denatured alcohol (Heet gasoline additive is usually easy to find) and lights it on fire. Once the cook pot is on top, the flames are forced out of the holes creating fairly efficient flames. Normally, this type of system is the lightest for shorter trips. The stove weighs just 6 g and the amount of fuel brought on the trip is adjustable (as opposed to a canister fuel container). In addition, there is flexibility in the alcohol fuel container. Typically, a small 8 fl oz flask (0.95 oz) is just the right amount for a weekend trip. The downsides to this system are its controllability and weight (ironically). Once the stove is lit, the flame is nearly invisible (especially in bright conditions) and will persist until the fuel is spent. In a dry environment where a human-caused forest fire is a real danger, this type of stove is an irresponsible choice since there is no way to shut off the flame. In addition, while this system tends to be lighter for short trips, the relatively low energy density of the fuel becomes the limiting factor for extended trips. Larger (heavier) fuel containers must be carried, and the weight of the fuel begins to offset the savings presented by the stove itself. Below are the stats for this system.

Stove Wt: 0.78 oz (incl stove and windscreen)
Fuel Container Wt: 1.1 oz (16 fl oz Smart water bottle)
Fuel Container Capacity: 16 fl oz
Fuel per Meal: 1.8 fl oz

A "jet stove" and pressurized fuel canister is likely the most common backpacking cooking system. It is safer and easier to use than an alcohol stove system, and is generally lightweight. Because the fuel and fuel container are relatively heavy, it is often overshadowed by an alcohol-based cooking system for shorter weekend trips. However, once the trip length creeps upwards of 5 days, the energy density of the pressurized fuel begins to offset the weight of its container and it becomes the lighter choice. The other benefit of a jet stove system is the ability to positively shut off the flame and fuel source. Below are the stats for this system.

Stove Wt: 3.5 oz (incl. stove and bag)
Fuel Container Wt: 4.2 oz (110g pressurized canister)
Fuel Container Capacity: 3.9 oz
Fuel per Meal: 0.32 oz

The static factors when comparing weights of cooking systems are the stove (plus accessories like carrying bag, windscreen, etc.) and the fuel container (not the fuel itself). One can think of these as "overhead." They must be carried regardless of the trip length. The dynamic factor is the amount of fuel carried, which depends on the trip length. The alcohol-based system has the benefit of flexibility in the amount of fuel carried. On a one night trip, you may only use 15% of the fuel in a jet stove container. However, you still must carry the entire 4.2 oz of the canister because the fuel is pressurized and cannot be repacked into smaller containers. On the same trip, using an alcohol stove, I would only need to carry 1.8 fl oz of fuel, meaning I could downsize my fuel container to something that only weighs 0.7 oz. The comparison table for this trip is below.

As you can see, the fuel container for the alcohol system is able to be scaled down to fit the length of the trip. In contrast, the jet system requires you to carry the excess capacity. In this case, the alcohol system weighs less than half of the jet system.

Also evident in the table are the various other factors which influence the overall weight of the cooking system. Starting from the top, The static weights (stove and fuel container) are listed. Following that, the total and daily mileage of the trip is listed. From this, the total trip length (in days) is calculated. The next input is meals/day. This is anywhere from 0.5 (cooked dinner every other night) to 3.0 (cooked breakfast, lunch, and dinner every day). Total number of meals for the trip is then acquired. The final input is the amount of fuel required per meal. From this, we can calculate the total amount of fuel and therefore the number/size of fuel container(s) needed. The total weight is then simply STOVE + FUEL CONTAINER(S) + FUEL. 

In the next example, the longest resupply stint I will face on the trail (105 miles) is modeled. On the alcohol side, you will notice the changes include: alcohol fuel container weight (changed from small 2 oz bottle to a 16 oz water bottle), miles, and meals/day (assumed cooked breakfasts every other day). This table paints clear picture of the downsides of an alcohol-based system. The fuel simply contains much less energy per oz than the pressurized canister.

From this data, we can plot a chart of the overall cook system weight (vertical axis) as a function of trip duration (horizontal axis). This applies the same parameters (miles/day, meals per day, etc.) to both the jet and alcohol systems while varying the trip length. The point at which the 2 lines cross is the trip distance where the 2 systems would weigh the same. Any shorter and the alcohol system is lighter. Any further and the jet system is lighter. Also of note are the steep jumps that occur at mile 120 for the alcohol system and mile 160 for the jet system. These are the points at which an extra (or larger) fuel container would need to be carried.

10/11/15: Hiking

Topographic map (follow trail North to South)

Route: Trail 626 from Vista Ridge trailhead, 2.5 miles to user trail continuing up the ridge. South another 1.5 miles to the top of Barrett Spur. Descent via same path.

Stats: 8.1 miles (3,600' gain)

Notes: Trail 626 links up with the old Vista Ridge trail after 0.3 miles. After filling out our wilderness pass at the kiosk, we continued uphill at a fast pace, gaining 1,300' and 2.5 miles in just under an hour. After a quick peanut butter snack, we left the trail and started up the direct, steep slope to the base of Barrett Spur. Gaining 1,500' in only 1 mile, we finally started up the steep user trail on the north ridge of the spur proper. We quickly discovered the slick, transparent sheets of ice on the north side of most rocks, and proceeded with caution until gaining the summit of the first and lower of Barrett Spur's 2 peaks. Looking south, the view of Mt. Hood's daunting north face was incredible, glaciers and steep faces making us feel small. Looking across the ridge to the true summit of the spur, I continued until the start of the final climb, where the ice and exposed nature convinced me to halt. Ryan proceeded on to the summit (you can see him at the top), then returned for a lunch break of epic proportions. Our perch felt like the top row of a movie theater, with Mounts St. Helens, Ranier, and Adams the stars. The clouds beneath us began to thicken and race towards us, so we began the steep trek back down to the car. 

9/14/15: Hiking

Mt. Hood from Zigzag Canyon

Route: Trail 778 from Paradise Park trailhead, 5.3 miles to PCT. East 2.5 miles to trail 779. South 4.4 miles to Rd. 39, 0.9 miles back to car.

Stats: 13.8 miles (4,281' gain)

Notes: Trail 778 (Paradise Park) climbs the west side of Zigzag Canyon. The trail is sustained and quite steep at times, offering 2 main viewpoints: one partway up the canyon atop the steep western walls, the other among beach-like sand below the towering peak. At the junction with the PCT, we turned right and admired the vast chasm that is Zigzag canyon, Mt. Jefferson looming in the distance. After an accidental detour and a lunch of salami, cheese, and snickers, a gradual descent to the crotch of the canyon led us to a wmildly flowing Zigzag river. The trail then kicked back and provided a tough mental and physical challenge from mile 6.5-8.0, climbing 1,400'. The best view was atop a steep saddle on the east ridge of Zigzag canyon, providing us with a clear view of Illumination rock below the summit of Mt. Hood. The lack of snow near the summit gave us the sense that we could simply hike to the top, while the harsh, dust-laden wind urged us to keep moving. Once at the junction with Trail 779 (Hidden Lake), we turned right towards the car and descended sharply for 2 miles past Hidden Lake. The trail then levels to a fast 2 miles back to the road. Just under a mile on the road (tarmac hiking is actually really terrible after miles on the dirt) brought us back to the car, and a high-five celebrated our accomplishment.

9/4/2015: Itinerary

Spreadsheet magic

While it will be impossible to plan out each day of a 430-mile hike, an overall schedule is necessary to plan out resupplies and food quantities. The main topics to be worked out are starting date, resupply quantities/locations, and total time on trail.

Picking a starting date is somewhat of a balancing act. Weather, trail conditions, bug activity, and work schedules all play a part. The window for weather and trail conditions is between mid June and early September. Any earlier than June and one risks running into too much snow. Any later than September and drying creeks combined with hot temperatures make for a difficult trip. I'm still researching when bug activity is at a minimum, but it seems like it's too hard to predict. In addition, I've yet to read a PCT journal that didn't mention how terrible the bugs were through Oregon. It may just be a fact of the trail and time of year, so all I can do is prepare with the proper gear and mental outlook. Since I want to meet Kylie along the way and will be relying on her for to and from the trail, the duration of the hike must fall within her summer break, which starts in mid June and ends in early September.

Alternatively, one could reference the schedules of the hundreds of thru-hikers starting at either border (Mexico or Canada) to see when they'll be in Oregon. The standard start date for the 5-month trip is early April for Northbounders and late June for Southbounders. This places the Oregon window between July 15 and August 6 for both groups (assumes overall 20 mile/day pace). However, when planning to hike the entire trail, Oregon is hardly the driving factor for selecting a start date. For Northbounders, the crucial times are the heat in the southern California desert, residual snow in the Sierras, and new snow in the Washington Cascades. For Southbounders, the critical window is avoiding residual snow in the Cascades and getting to the Sierras before new snow. In both cases, Oregon not the priority but rather an afterthought sandwiched between more serious challenges.

The duration of the hike is based on average miles hiked each day, number of zero-mile days, and time spent at resupply locations. My duration assumes a 20 mile/day average, which is based on research and what I think I am capable of. After interrogating Ryan and reading others' online journals, I've learned that once your body gets used to hiking every day, the miles tend to come easier. In addition, it's not hard to spend 12-16 hours each day hiking, especially when solo. After eating dinner at 6:00 PM, for example, you have the option of setting up camp and relaxing for 3 hours waiting for the sun to set, or you can keep hiking and gain another 6 miles (assuming your feet abide). In short, there's not much else to do but hike! I don't plan on taking any zero-days, save for any potential meet-ups with friends along the trail. As a buffer/safety factor, I've assumed that once I make it to each of my resupply locations, I'll spend the rest of the day there, continuing on the next morning. This accomplishes a few things: It allows me time to collect my resupply package, purchase anything I may need, charge my devices (phone, battery pack, camera), eat "real food" at any facilities there may be, and shower/launder, if available. As calculated by one of my many spreadsheets (photo above), this works out to a total duration of 25 days.

All things considered, I am thinking that a start date coinciding with the full PCT dates (July 14 - Aug 7) is best. In addition to satisfying the criteria outlined above, it conveniently accomplishes a few additional things. It occurs in the window between Kylie and my wedding anniversary (July 2) and Kylie's birthday (August 13). In addition, hiking during the standard Oregon window means there will be the highest volume of thru hikers and therefore the most potential for receiving support. Since I'm hiking solo, the chances of getting help on trail will be the greatest during this time.