8/5/2016: Post-Hike Notes

Overview

I started my hike on the morning of July 17, 2016. On the afternoon of the fourth day, I reached Fish Lake Resort (58-mile stint), the location of my first resupply box. After showering, doing laundry, and sorting through my resupply box, I continued on for a few more miles.

After doing two 24-mile days, I reached Mazama Village below Crater Lake (52-mile stint) a day early. I stayed the night here with a group of hikers at the campground, then left the following morning. After 5 days, I reached Shelter Cove (86-mile stint) where Kylie picked me up. This began a 3-night layover including a visit to Bend and camping on Odell Lake.

On Sunday afternoon, Kylie dropped me off where the PCT crosses Hwy 20 west of Bend, skipping my planned 4th stint between Shelter Cove and Big Lake Youth Camp (5 days, 89 miles). On the fourth day of this 102-mile stint with less than 100 miles to Cascade Locks, I hiked 5 miles off trail to be picked up by my good friend Geoffrey. I coordinated this rescue because my right achilles tendon had become increasingly sore over the last 3 days and I didn't feel I could continue safely. 

Journal Entries

Each night before sleeping, I spent about 30 minutes jotting down my thoughts from the day. I've transcribed these notes word-for-word in individual posts. They sometimes appear in a jumbled order and with typos, which are designated by placing [sic] after mistakes that are acknowledged and quoted exactly. I've also added additional text which I think adds to the ephemeral, sometimes random thoughts I happened to write down at the end of my days.

First journal post.

Photos

A link to an album containing every photo I took during the trip can be found on Google Drive (link). There will also be a few of the more relevant photos included with the journal post from each day.

Photos were taken on a Sony DSC-W800 point-and-shoot camera. It had great battery life, easily lasting a 5-day stint.

Post-Hike Gear Reviews

Link

Resupply Boxes

I sent ahead 5 boxes containing food, fuel, maps, toiletries, first aid, and other miscellaneous supplies for each upcoming stint. I also included cash and quarters for paying for laundry and showers, when available.

Below is a list of items I sent in each resupply box along with any comments.

Food, per day:

Link

I packaged each day's worth of food in a gallon-size freezer bag mainly so that I could track if I was eating enough/too much. I left as much food as I could in its original packaging (Mountain House, Knorr, mac and cheese) to preserve freshness, but had to send some bulk items already repackaged in quart-sized freezer bags (nuts, powdered milk, cereal/granola). While sorting through resupply boxes, I repackaged the bulkier food items into quart-sized freezer bags.

Before packing the food into each resupply box, I put all the food into a heavy duty trash compactor bag, spun it closed, then secured it with a zip tie. This was to try to isolate the food from other scented items in the box (soap, toothpaste).

Toiletries:

Link

First Aid:

Link

Miscellaneous Gear:

Link

7/14/2016: Final Preparations

The last couple weeks have been busy. With my impending departure only a few days away, both Kylie and I have been hustling and bustling.

3 months ago, my countdown spreadsheet commenced with Buy custom gear. This included my pack, shelter, and quilt. Today, the only items left are Submit time sheets, Set up vacation response, and Print water reports.

Last week, we raided our local Fred Meyer grocer in search of junk food.

We succeeded

Kylie and I then proceeded to sort through the 40 lbs of food, placing precise quantities into each resupply box. About halfway through, we developed a system whereby I could easily and efficiently communicate an item's quantity for each box. Since the boxes were all lined up in order I would simply say, "Cherry PopTarts: one-zero-one...one-one-zero. Honey Buns: one-one-zero...one-one-zero." And she would then place that many Cherry PopTarts and Honey Buns in each box.

Mutually exclusive robots

Gathering all of the small items for the resupply boxes was tedious indeed. I'm thankful for the amount of time I was able to put into planning what to put into each box. I've likely included much more than the average hiker, but I will sleep well knowing that I can restock my first aid kit (for example) at any of my 5 resupplies.

Any of my leftover supplies will be donated to the community hiker box (take a penny, leave a penny). I'm sure someone will be glad to come upon extra bandages or triple antibiotic.

I understand that the background is horrible

After putting the food into odor resistant bags, the small items were sorted into freezer bags. Everything was double-checked (especially the maps) before heading to the local UPS distribution center for the final goodbye.

The ratty one in the back is not mine

I have neither the time nor desire to share how unnecessarily complicated it was to ship fuel canisters via UPS. I will only say that it is possible.

I found that 12" cube boxes were the perfect size. The ones I bought at UPS have the ability to fold down into 8" high boxes. Note that the colorful tape is to make them easier to ID for whoever is helping me at the resupply locations. Popular resorts could easily be holding on to 100 boxes waiting for their hikers. I also wrote my last name in the bottom left corner of each side.

It certainly feels strange being so close to the start of something which was once so far in the future. I feel anxious, excited, and ready.

But most of all I feel curious.

How will I react to being without my people for so long? What if there's a trail closure? What if half of the food in my resupply box is stale?

All of the things I cannot program into my spreadsheets are all of things that occupy my mind the most. I know that I am as prepared as I wanted to be, all that's left to do is hike 439.3 miles.

5/10/2016: Route

Proposed PCT route from California to Washington border.

After many revisions, my route thru Oregon is now finalized (I hope). Leaving the California border on July 17, I plan to arrive at the Washington border 26 days later. The hike will be 434 miles and divided into 6 stints. Between each of these stints, I will pick up a resupply box (to be shipped in early July) from a local business, repack my food bag, and continue on my way.

Stint 1: CA/OR Border to Fish Lake Resort (60 miles, 4 days)
It all starts on Sunday morning with a short drive down Interstate 5 from Callahan's Lodge in Ashland to the California border. Here, Kylie drops me off and continues on to spend some of their hard-earned summer with family. I begin walking north on a frontage road, taking the first of some million footsteps that will take me to Washington. 7 miles later the PCT intersects my road and I turn right to join it.

Aside: The official PCT crosses from California into Oregon about 15 miles west of this spot. However, from Ashland it's a bumpy 1.5 hour drive and adds 27 trail miles to the hike. In the interest of squeezing my timeline and simplifying things for Kylie, I chose to simply start where I-5 crosses the border.

At 16 miles per day, this first stint is comprised of the shortest daily mileages, allowing me to "ease" into the daily grind of hiking of 8 hours day after day. Taking 4 days, these first 60 miles guide me through the Siskiyou Mountains, Rogue River National Forest, and the lava fields of Brown Mountain. I arrive at a small resort named for the small lake on which it sits. Fish Lake holds my first first resupply box.

Stint 2: Fish Lake Resort to Crater Lake (48 miles, 3 days)
With California's Mt. Shasta still looming to south I pass Mt. McLoughlin on Wednesday morning, the first of Oregon's 10 major Cascade Range volcanoes. Sky Lakes Wilderness continues 40 miles north, butting up against the south end of Crater Lake National Park.

Once in the Park on Saturday, it's only 10 short miles to the entrance booth, which PCT hikers skirt around to avoid the $20 entry fee (hikers are charged the same fee that cars pay). Here, still 5 miles below the rim of the crater, I pick up my 2nd resupply box. Since back-country camping is prohibited for the next 15 miles while near Crater Lake's rim, this night will likely be spent in Mazama Campground, just across the parking lot.

Stint 3: Crater Lake to Odell Lake (86 miles, 5 days)
Sunday morning starts with brief hike up to the rim of Crater Lake, providing a stunning view and a magnificent start to this stint.

Mt. Scott, the second Cascade volcano, is visible across the lake to the east. At 8,900 ft, it is the pinnacle of what remains after its predecessor's destruction. However, Mt. Scott was previously just a minor spur on the estimated 12,000 ft Mt. Mazama (tallest in Oregon), whose eruption 7,000 years ago cleaved nearly a mile off its top. Thus, the bowl that is the picturesque Crater Lake was formed.

Ironically, the country's deepest lake filled some of the world's purest water provides the PCT hiker no sustenance, but instead marks the beginning of the longest water-less stretch of the trail.

26 miles and 5 liters (11 lbs!) of water later, I reach Thielsen Creek. During these miles, my pack will be at its heaviest. 12 lbs base pack weight, 11 lbs of food and fuel (5 days), and 11 lbs of water combine forces to become a 34-pound burden. For comparison, my total pack weight will be under 20 lbs for 18 of the 25 hiking days, so this section will be both mentally and physically challenging.

At mile 140, I pass Mt. Thielsen and reach the high point of the PCT in Oregon/Washington. It is volcano number 3 of 11. 18 miles per day brings me to Odell Lake by Thursday, where a 2-day layover with Kylie, Sheriff Johnson, and friends will provide a welcome and much needed rejuvenation.

Stint 4: Odell Lake to Big Lake Youth Camp (89 miles, 5 days)
Leaving the comfort of car-camping behind, I start walking north again on Sunday morning. After 60 miles through the countless Cascade Lakes region west of Bend, I reach the Three Sisters Wilderness, home to South, Middle, and North Sisters. Volcanoes number 4, 5, and 6.

I continue towards Mt. Washington and my next resupply at Big Lake Youth Camp, an Adventist summer camp nestled in the forest. A true friend of PCT hikers, the camp offers showers, laundry, and (buffet-style) meals and asks for only a small donation.

Stint 5: Big Lake Youth Camp to Timberline Lodge (102 miles, 5 days)
I arrive at Big Lake Youth Camp on Thursday and am back on trail by Friday morning. In order to keep this stint to 5 days, an average of just over 20 miles per day is required. At this point, I'm expecting my body to be adjusted to thru-hiking and look forward to the challenge.

Out of Mt. Washington Wilderness and into Mt. Jefferson Wilderness, Three-Fingered Jack is the next volcano, followed shortly by Mt. Jefferson. Mt. Hood lies just ahead on the skyline, its northern slopes dropping away towards the Columbia River/Washington Border. Another buffet (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) is waiting at Timberline lodge when I arrive on Tuesday.

Stint 6: Timberline Lodge to OR/WA Border (50 miles, 3 days)
My last push for the border begins on Wednesday morning. The goal of a Friday afternoon arrival requires only 17 miles per day. After 40 miles of up-and-down hiking along ridges, the last 10 miles drop 4,000 vertical feet into Cascade Locks and the lowest point on the PCT. The last miles are an alternate to the official PCT, which misses a gaggle of scenic waterfalls along Eagle Creek. Among the most scenic points along the PCT, Tunnel Falls makes a strong case.

The small town of Cascade Locks on the Columbia serves as the northern terminus of my hike, while PCT thru-hikers will continue on. After hiking 2,145 miles from Mexico, the remaining 500 miles to Canada are a worthy end to their epic adventures.

9/4/2015: Itinerary

Spreadsheet magic

While it will be impossible to plan out each day of a 430-mile hike, an overall schedule is necessary to plan out resupplies and food quantities. The main topics to be worked out are starting date, resupply quantities/locations, and total time on trail.

Picking a starting date is somewhat of a balancing act. Weather, trail conditions, bug activity, and work schedules all play a part. The window for weather and trail conditions is between mid June and early September. Any earlier than June and one risks running into too much snow. Any later than September and drying creeks combined with hot temperatures make for a difficult trip. I'm still researching when bug activity is at a minimum, but it seems like it's too hard to predict. In addition, I've yet to read a PCT journal that didn't mention how terrible the bugs were through Oregon. It may just be a fact of the trail and time of year, so all I can do is prepare with the proper gear and mental outlook. Since I want to meet Kylie along the way and will be relying on her for to and from the trail, the duration of the hike must fall within her summer break, which starts in mid June and ends in early September.

Alternatively, one could reference the schedules of the hundreds of thru-hikers starting at either border (Mexico or Canada) to see when they'll be in Oregon. The standard start date for the 5-month trip is early April for Northbounders and late June for Southbounders. This places the Oregon window between July 15 and August 6 for both groups (assumes overall 20 mile/day pace). However, when planning to hike the entire trail, Oregon is hardly the driving factor for selecting a start date. For Northbounders, the crucial times are the heat in the southern California desert, residual snow in the Sierras, and new snow in the Washington Cascades. For Southbounders, the critical window is avoiding residual snow in the Cascades and getting to the Sierras before new snow. In both cases, Oregon not the priority but rather an afterthought sandwiched between more serious challenges.

The duration of the hike is based on average miles hiked each day, number of zero-mile days, and time spent at resupply locations. My duration assumes a 20 mile/day average, which is based on research and what I think I am capable of. After interrogating Ryan and reading others' online journals, I've learned that once your body gets used to hiking every day, the miles tend to come easier. In addition, it's not hard to spend 12-16 hours each day hiking, especially when solo. After eating dinner at 6:00 PM, for example, you have the option of setting up camp and relaxing for 3 hours waiting for the sun to set, or you can keep hiking and gain another 6 miles (assuming your feet abide). In short, there's not much else to do but hike! I don't plan on taking any zero-days, save for any potential meet-ups with friends along the trail. As a buffer/safety factor, I've assumed that once I make it to each of my resupply locations, I'll spend the rest of the day there, continuing on the next morning. This accomplishes a few things: It allows me time to collect my resupply package, purchase anything I may need, charge my devices (phone, battery pack, camera), eat "real food" at any facilities there may be, and shower/launder, if available. As calculated by one of my many spreadsheets (photo above), this works out to a total duration of 25 days.

All things considered, I am thinking that a start date coinciding with the full PCT dates (July 14 - Aug 7) is best. In addition to satisfying the criteria outlined above, it conveniently accomplishes a few additional things. It occurs in the window between Kylie and my wedding anniversary (July 2) and Kylie's birthday (August 13). In addition, hiking during the standard Oregon window means there will be the highest volume of thru hikers and therefore the most potential for receiving support. Since I'm hiking solo, the chances of getting help on trail will be the greatest during this time. 

08/27/15: Partner

I talked with Kylie about general info and logistics last night, and it helped me to verbalize feelings I was having about the hike. Until tonight, it was mainly just me and my spreadsheets. Her main questions were

1. Why solo?
2. How is cell service?
3. Can we meet up for sections of hiking?

For me, the issue of thru-hiking solo is mostly a matter of practicality. It is virtually impossible for 2 hikers to be on the same schedule. One may need a rest day to recover from blisters while the other is ready for a long day. One may want to stop for dinner at 6:00 and continue hiking into the night while the other doesn't want to eat until 8:00 and be done for the day. In addition to the practical reasons, I believe I would get more from the hike (spiritually and emotionally) by myself. The thought of being completely free to decide where, when, and how I hike, camp, eat is appealing to me. Obviously, there are safety concerns, but between my research, planning, and loved ones willing to help, I know we can make it safe.

It appears as though cell service is quite good along the trail. At a minimum, I'm expecting to be able to make calls and emails at all 4 resupplies. Here are the grades given to the 4 resupplies according to PCTA’s cell service report: Mazama Village (A), Shelter Cove Resort (A/B), BLYC (B), Timberline Lodge (B), Cascade Locks (A). Service is actually pretty decent along the trail, with a grade of at least B coming every 50 miles or so. The other good thing about the PCT is that it will be relatively busy at that time of year. I'll likely be starting my hike within the window of full-trail PCT hikers arriving in Oregon (late June to late July), so I'll be getting passed by a number of hikers daily.

I do hope I can meet up with Kylie and Geoff for short sections of the hike, perhaps for a weekend or 2. I think I would enjoy the change of pace and company. The main hurdle is logistics. They would need to shuttle 2 cars or take public transit on the way down and/or back. I looked into good spots for making this happen and have yet to come up with any good ideas.

08/24/15: Beginning

Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail, Oregon section (source)

It was about 2 weeks ago when the new engineer started. Ryan interned with our company last summer, starting the week before I did. After graduating this Spring, he thru-hiked 800+ miles through part of Washington, all of Oregon, and into California via the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail (PCT). Having been yearning for an adventure, this piqued my interest. The great outdoors, becoming one with my equipment, and the planning; all 3 equally as appealing to me.

Spreadsheets have been made: checklists, wishlists, weight saving ideas, gear comparisons, hiking schedule, resupply notes, calories packed, etc. Each new spreadsheet is more interesting than the last. Of course, I've also updated my normal backpacking checklist with new gear, wishlist gear, new food ideas, and new formatting. I also added the ability to plan a trip for 2 people including weight breakdowns for each person, making splitting/comparing loads very easy. I'm currently using Person 1 as a "current case", using only gear that I have already (24.5 lb base weight). Person 2 is serving as my "ideal case", which includes ideas for new gear to reduce my base weight.

Aside: The process of spreadsheeting the shit out of something begins slowly, but escalates hurriedly. The same thing happened with my new car, my rc car, our emergency supplies, and my shotgun. It almost always starts with a cost comparison, then advances to summarizing research I've done, then evolves into an auto maintenance log, a motor gearing calculator, a go-bag checklist, and an ammo counter.

Base weight is one of the main concerns when planning a thru-hike. It is the weight everything carried in/on your backpack that is not a consumable. It facilitates apples to apples comparisons of pack weight regardless of trip length. Obvious examples of consumables are food, water, and fuel, but I've also categorized things like toothpaste, batteries, hand sanitizer, etc. as consumables. This is as mainly for housekeeping purposes so that when planning my resupplies, I'll reference my list of consumables and remember what to include.

Much of what I document in this journal will be about reducing my base weight, either through replacing "heavy" gear or eliminating gear outright. While initial instinct is to start buying and replacing gear, a large chunk of savings can more easily (and cheaply) be had by eliminating items. This is not to say that anything can be eradicated; the trick is to find a balance between safety and light weight. For example, some items that would typically be brought but have been nixed in the name of weight are a trowel (4.25 oz, for digging poo poo holes), coffee cup (1.5 oz), and pack cover (4.05 oz). I will dig holes with sticks and rocks, drink coffee/tea directly from my cookpot, and pack my sleeping bag and clothes in a lightweight plastic bag to keep them dry.

Another way to save weight is to use items for multiple things. The foam back sheet (1.1 oz) in the ULA Ohm 2.0 backpack can also be used as a sit pad in camp, eliminating the bubble mailer (3.3 oz) I would've brought otherwise. ZPacks makes a clothes stuff sack that has fleece lining sewn on one half of the inside. Flip it inside out and fill with extra clothes to produce a comfy pillow (1.65 oz), eliminating a donut travel pillow (5.5 oz).

To avoid carrying unreasonably heavy loads (the vast majority of which would be food), I'll be resupplying at 4 points along the trail. These equipment resupplies are the heart of long-distance thru-hikes and 2 main strategies exist: buying as you go and shipping packages ahead. I have so far chosen to ship all or most of my resupply packages ahead, mostly due to the fact that stores are not always readily accessible off the trail (some may require 20 mile detours into town, either by walking or hitch hiking). In addition, these stores may or may not have a good selection of backpacker-friendly food (think gas station convenience stores). I've chosen 4 resupply points along the 430 miles (Crater Lake, Shelter Cove Resort, Big Lake Youth Camp, Timberline Lodge). All of these accept and will hold packages for thru-hikers. There's also the possibility of meeting someone on or near the trail who can provide a resupply. I'm hoping I'll be able to meet Kylie and Geoff at some point(s), and hike with them for a few days. While I want to spend the majority of the hike solo, it would be really nice to break up the monotony with some company and a couple slower/shorter days.

Aside from food and fuel, I'm still deciding on what should be in the resupplies. The entire list of consumables includes ibuprofen, bug spray, chapstick, deodorant, moleskin, paper towels, soap, sunscreen, toilet paper, toothpaste, wet wipes, pack liner, batteries, books, groundsheet, maps, sock, and water purification drops. As with most things hiking, there exists another balance: this one between minimizing weight and minimizing inconvenience. From a weight perspective, it would be ideal to carry only enough of the above consumables to last the 5 days until my next resupply. However, not only would it be annoying to have to sift through and refill 20 different things at each resupply, it may be unsafe to cut back on things like Advil or sunscreen.